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Producer | Méo-Camuzet |
Country | France |
Region | Burgundy |
Subregion | Clos Vougeot |
Varietal | Pinot Noir |
Vintage | 2016 |
Sku | 96398 |
Size | 750ml |
As of 1985, Domaine Meo-Camuzet began selling under their own label directly from the cellars. After 1988, they progressively took charge of the vineyards as the contacts with their vintners expired. Currently, Jean-Nicolas Méo, son of Jean Méo, took responsibility and is now in charge of technical and administrative matters. He is helped in these tasks by Henri Jayer who advises him on winemaking and by vineyard manager Christian Faurois.
Their objective is to make wines with structure and delicacy - with concentration as well as charm. The balance of a wine is essential; refinement and complexity are the hallmarks of great wines and represent the desired goals throughout the wine making and ageing processes. Of course, this notion cannot be separated from that of terroir.
Various procedures are implemented to carry out this objective: vine-growing techniques that try to favor the natural balances, reveal the terroir and keep yields in check, careful harvesting by hand, and sorting grapes prior to a winemaking procedure characterized by minimum interference. This encourages the freshness, the expression of the fruit and the personality of each wine rather than simple extraction. Maturing in barrels is a well-planned affair with an extensive use of new barrels; the wines are bottled by gravity not using filtration.
Good medium red. Alluring scents of dark raspberry, mocha and game. This wine brilliantly combines charm and power, with its intense flavors of sappy dark cherry, herbs, licorice and violet supported by firming stony minerality. Dense, energetic and complete, finishing with excellent length. This unusually elegant Clos Vougeot strikes me as more successful in the context of its vintage than the 2015. And not at all austere despite the crop level of just 23 hectoliters per hectare.
A noticeably, and agreeably, floral-infused nose speaks of a pretty variety of red berries that are laced with hints of earth, spice and oak. The delicious middle weight plus flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension while flashing a beguiling texture that is finer than usual while delivering excellent length on the balanced finish that is less youthfully austere than usual. Another difference is that this is also a bit denser than usual as well and like the Rognets this should both age well but also be approachable relatively early on.
The 2016 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a tightly wound bouquet with earthy, woodland scents permeating the red fruit. As an aside, I thought there were a few stems here, though Jean-Nicolas assured me there are none. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, vibrant red berry fruit laced with orange zest and tangerine. There is a sense of this being a more linear, correct and conservative Clos Vougeot until it finally fans on the final third. Good potential.
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