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Producer | Joseph Voillot |
Country | France |
Region | Burgundy |
Varietal | Pinot Noir |
Vintage | 2016 |
Sku | 96281 |
Size | 750ml |
This venerable fifth-generation domaine has holdings in the top vineyards of both Volnay and Pommard. Joseph Voillot's son-in-law, Jean Pierre Charlot, is now the managing director; he worked closely with Joseph from 1980 until Joseph’s retirement in 1995.
For many years, Jean Pierre was a professor at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, where he taught several of Burgundy’s rising stars. He’s a meticulous man, and what interests him is handling the challenging years when the vineyard work, triage at harvest, and careful cellar practices really pay off. It’s immediately evident when tasting through the domaine’s range that these are true “vins de terroir” (thus the judicious use of new oak), and each wine at every level reflects its origin. Anyone who wants to grasp the essence of Volnay and Pommard needs to look no further than Domaine Joseph Voillot.
From a .62 acre plot whose vines date from 1959. This parcel is located entirely in Rugiens en bas, a vineyard up for a vote on becoming Grand Cru. Jean-Pierre says that there is really no point to make it Grand Cru, however; "if it becomes Grand Cru, it is still the same wine in the bottle, you just pay more!"
A cool and highly restrained nose reluctantly offers up its aromas of red currant, violet, spice, anise and a hint of wood. The sleek, ultra-intense and overtly muscular big-bodied flavors possess evident power on the almost pungently mineral-driven, austere and very firmly structured finale. This should age well for years to come yet there is enough buffering sap to probably permit it to be enjoyed after only 6 to 8 years. In a word, excellent.
The 2016 Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens, of which there are four barrels this vintage, has a finely tuned blackcurrant and raspberry-scented bouquet with just a soupçon of black tea and undergrowth. This is one of the most complex aromatics from the domaine. The palate is very well balanced with supple tannin, well-judged acidity, harmonious and very natural in style with a lilting, quite pure finish that perhaps just lacks the sustain of an non-problematic vintage. Still, there is much to admire about this Pommard and it will age with style. This is potentially Jean-Pierre's best wine this vintage. - Neal Martin
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