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Producer | Emmanuel Rouget |
Country | France |
Region | Burgundy |
Subregion | Vosne-Romanee |
Varietal | Pinot Noir |
Vintage | 2016 |
Sku | 96724 |
Size | 750ml |
Domaine Emmanuel Rouget began in 1985 (which by Burgundy’s standards is quite recent), but in that time it has attained almost mythical status among collectors worldwide. Located in Flagey‐Echezeaux, the domaine’s holdings lie predominantly in the appellation of Vosne‐Romanée, Vosne‐Romanée 1er Cru, and Echezeaux Grand Cru.
The history of Domaine Emmanuel Rouget is forever tied to the famous vigneron Henri Jayer, Emmanuel’s uncle. By the early 1980s, Henri had already become one of the most legendary winemakers in Burgundy, influencing a generation of young vignerons in Burgundy and around the world. Henri had two daughters, but neither of them were interested in making wine. In 1985 he took on his nephew Emmanuel Rouget as his protégé and began leasing some of his vines to him. Over the years, Jayer gave up more and more vines to his nephew. In 2001, following his retirement, all his vines went under the control of Emmanuel.
Without question, the story of the domaine cannot be told without mentioning their most famous vineyard, Cros Parantoux. The history of the vineyard, which sits just above the Grand Cru of Richebourg, had fallen into disrepair between the first and second world war. By the 1940s, it was nothing more than forgotten brush land. Jayer acquired his first parcel of Cros Parantoux in 1951, and in the first few years, he had to use more than 400 charges of dynamite to soften up the soil so it could be planted. The first planting was done in 1953 and he acquired his last parcel in 1970, which brought his total holding to .72 hectares. Today, those same .72 hectares belong to Emmanuel Rouget with the remaining .28 hectares of the vineyard belonging to Méo‐Camuzet.
Here too the range of spice elements is breathtakingly broad on the ripe and super-fresh aromas of dark berries, plum, tea, anise and hoisin, all of which is trimmed in just enough wood to notice. As is usually the case there is much more evident minerality suffusing the impressively concentrated and vibrant middle weight flavors that possess cuts-like-a-knife delineation on the explosively long and intensely saline finish. This is also a combination of the Vosne-Romanée Beaux Monts and Ech as it possesses the elegance and finesse of the former with the power and focus of the latter. In short, this is brilliant.
The 2016 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux was only slightly touched by the frost, with Emmanuel losing around 10% of the fruit, no more. Matured in 100% new oak, it has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, raspberry preserve, cold stone and hints of violet gently unfolding in the glass, not a million miles away from a Richebourg (both stylistically and geographically!). The palate is beautifully balanced with luscious red fruit coordinated with a fine line of acidity, blood orange and hints of licorice with blood orange/tangerine notes toward the sustained, pixelated finish. Superb…but maybe the Beaumonts has the edge this year.
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